Day 33 – Olveiroa to Fisterra 38km

Today is the day we are officially finishing the Camino.

It was one of our earliest starts. Woke up at 5.30am, ate our cereal and left right on 6.00am. It was peacefully dark with bright stars awakening the sky. We evening got to see a shooting star as we walked and of course we made our secret wishes. Our head torches were on and we felt a mixture of accumulated fatigue, sadness that it was coming to an end but also excited to be able to finally finish. In the distance we saw a bright orange mist and were mesmerised by it so walked as closely as we could to get a clearer glimpse of it. All of a sudden out of the darkness a car came towards us, the window rolled down and two locals spoken to us in Spanish and pointed backwards, attempting to tell us we were walking in completely the wrong direction. Lucky they were there otherwise we would have continued to follow the orange mist which just turned out to be smoke coming out of coal mine illuminated by the lights.

At about the 10km mark we found ourselves a nice rock to use as a seat and enjoyed our apples as usual. It was here that we saw the first lot of pilgrims pass by for the day. We only sat for about 10 minutes and got going again. The path soon became very much an uphill challenge which is not a favourite of mine. I tried to distract myself from what was to come by singing the ‘Oompa Loompa’ song in my head and within a few seconds I was walking at lightning speed and tackled the hill with ease. I was walking so fast I couldn’t actually slow down and Jason couldn’t keep up with me. This went on for about 2km after which point I was sweating like mad and had to take off a few layers.

When we reached the 15km mark, there was a very steep descent taking us all the way down to sea level. This is where we saw the first glimpse of the coast, and it was incredible. We hadn’t seen the coast in what seemed like forever, so the sight of it on a sunny day like today felt like freedom. We continued our walk downhill and stopped in the town of Cee to enjoy our baguettes. Unfortunately the bread was very stale so it wasn’t very appetising, but it did the trick of curing our hunger.

When we got going again we walked through the town, between alleyways, behind houses and eventually back into the woodlands. It was a very enjoyable walk which went by very quickly. As we were walking we bumped into a couple in their thirties walking the Camino with their 2 year old son on a high tech buggy. They have been been walking since July and started their journey from Le Puy in France. They have been predominantly wild camping their entire trip and by the end of it will have walked about 1500km! These guys have no home so are constantly travelling. He works 2 months a year in construction and that’s enough to fund their travel for the rest of the year. They are both English teachers but rarely ever ever work as that. She speaks English, Spanish and French, whilst he speaks English, Spanish, Fenech, Catalan and Portugese! After meeting them we had two thoughts: 1. We totally had couple envy and 2. Having a kid doesn’t mean you can’t travel. In all honesty we have never admired people as much as we did these two, kudos to them for having the guts to do what they do.

By 3pm we took our first few steps into the district of Fisterra. At first we saw the pristine beach followed by a long tranquil walkway lined by trees. We walked this part very slowly, partly because we were sore but also because these were going to be our last steps on the Camino. We sat down just before we entered the city centre and shared the two last pieces of chocolate we had been saving for this moment. It tasted better than ever and provided us with the last ounce of energy to finish off the journey.

We checked ourselves into a hotel, showered, quickly stocked up on some tapas items at the grocery and quickly made our way up the hill towards the lighthouse to see the sunset. Now getting there was another 3.1km walk and we totally underestimated that distance and only left the town centre at 5.30pm (probably should have left before 5pm). We knew there was a chance we would miss the sunset so decided to stop about 200 metres before the lighthouse onto a mound of rocks and thankfully we made it just in time. There was no one else there but us. It was the most spectacular sunset we have ever seen. During the days when people thought the earth was flat, this is the location where people though was the world’s end. Looking into the horizon I could very much understand why. I was so glad we found this rock, we were by ourselves and could finally share a moment to comprehend what we have just experienced. The Camino is something so hard to explain. It as journey of self discovery, self improvement and the start of a new way to live.

Total cost for today:
– Breakfast: €1 Cereal
– Lunch: €2 Ham and cheese baguette
– Dinner: €4 Tapas
– Snacks: €2 Apples and chocolate
– Accommodation: €19

Total cost per person: €28

Til next time
Ann& Jason xo

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