Day 12 – Atapuerca to Burgos 20km


Slept in till about 7am which is the most we have ever done since being on the Camino. Despite going to bed freezing in the barn, we somehow managed to get a pretty decent night’s sleep. Just before going to bed last night, we couldn’t help but have intensely suppressed laughter when the pilgrim next to us bumped his head on the bed post in the dark for about the 10th time since he arrived. Mark is in his early 30’s also from Melbourne. From the moment he started speaking we knew there was something not quite right with this guy. Within about 5 minutes of introducing ourselves he told us that he slipped in the shower at one of the albergues a few days ago, cracked the back of his skull open and ended laying in a pool of his own blood. A fellow pilgrim found him and called the ambulance. In hospital he was given 5 stitches and told to rest as he was experiencing a concussion (which explains his generally odd behaviour). He rested for about a day, got bored and decided to continue the Camino despite having significant pain where he fracture his skull. So we definitely think he is still concussed but it’s not our place to tell him he needs to rest.

Moving on, we left our barn dorm by 8am and were pleased to see the sky opening up to a beautiful blue colour that we hadn’t seen in about 3 days. The first half was a mild ascent on very stony ground. Along the way we had beautiful views overlooking the valleys, something we hadn’t been able to enjoy for what seemed like forever. The second half of the day was very forgettable as it took us along a highway for about 2 hours. We walked through an industrial town which meant stopping to eat our lunch wasn’t much of an option. Instead we ate on the go until we arrived in the city of Burgos by 12pm. We were quite surprised how quickly we had arrived, that is until we realised it was a further 75 minute walk to get to our Albergue. When we finally found the Albergue we still had to wait another 45 minutes for it to open which meant that we had time to go scouting for some much deserved chocolate!

The city of Burgos is beautiful, especially the Old town which has colourful buildings and the Main Street it’s decorated in pastel coloured bunting. This is the region where the Castellan Spanish (original Spanish) originated from.

As there was no kitchen at our Albergue, we went out to enjoy a pilgrims menu with Amanda, James, Kim & Choi (both from South Korea). It was delicious and included: Castellan soup, fish and chips and puff pastry with a custard filling. Once we finished we came back to the municipal and hung out with our other pilgrim friends in the communal area. That was likely to be the last time we’d all spend as a group as some people were staying in Burgos for an extra night. Some highlights of the night include:
– James not being able to open Amanda’s folding knife which took Howard less than a second to to
– A older French woman deciding to squeeze her self onto our table by pushing Amanda and I apart to sell stickers that she had made with inspirational quotes on them (we thought they were free so were keen to grab some at the start, but when she started saying they were between €1-€1.50 we quickly lost interest)
– Choi accidentally microwaving a chocolate croissant in its aluminium wrapper causing sparks to fly in the microwave

Overall a great night and we are certainly sad that we may never see these guys again. They have made our Camino experience incredible so far, so fingers crossed we cross paths with them again.

Total cost for today:
– Breakfast: €1 banana and yoghurt
– Lunch: €2 salami, olives and cream cheese baguette
– Dinner: €10 pilgrim’s menu
– Accommodation: €5
– Snacks: €3 chocolate and chips

Total cost per person: €21

Til next time
Ann & Jason xo.

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